Why Switch to a Safety Razor?
Save Money
Double-edge blades cost pennies compared to cartridge refills. A 100-pack of quality blades like Astra Platinum blades can last over a year for under $10.
Better Shave
A single, sharp blade cuts cleaner than multiple dull blades dragging across your skin, reducing irritation and ingrown hairs.
Eco-Friendly
Metal blades are recyclable. No more plastic cartridges ending up in landfills. One razor can last decades with proper care.
Ritual Experience
Transform a mundane chore into an enjoyable morning ritual. The process becomes something to look forward to.
Safety Razor Basics
What is a Safety Razor?
A safety razor is a shaving implement with a protective device positioned between the blade edge and the skin. Unlike straight razors, safety razors hold a replaceable double-edge blade that provides two sharp edges for shaving.
The most popular type is the double-edge (DE) safety razor, which uses inexpensive, universally-compatible blades. These razors were the standard from the early 1900s until the rise of cartridge razors in the 1970s. Today, they're experiencing a renaissance among those seeking a better, more economical shave.
Anatomy of a Safety Razor
Choosing Your First Razor
For beginners, a mild-to-medium razor is recommended. Two excellent options dominate the starter market:
Merkur 34C HD
The classic choice. German-made with a heavy, short handle that lets the razor's weight do the work. The chrome finish is durable, and the closed-comb head provides a forgiving shave for beginners.
Check Price on AmazonEdwin Jagger DE89
British elegance meets excellent engineering. Slightly longer handle than the Merkur, with similar blade gap (0.71mm). Available in various handle finishes. Known for exceptional build quality.
Check Price on AmazonProper Shaving Technique
Preparation is Key
A great shave starts before the blade touches your skin. Proper preparation softens the beard and opens pores, making cutting easier and reducing irritation.
Hydrate Your Face
Shave after a hot shower, or apply a warm, wet towel to your face for 2-3 minutes. Heat and moisture soften whiskers by up to 70%.
Build Your Lather
Use a quality shaving soap or cream with a brush. Work the lather in circular motions to lift the beard hairs. Good lather should be thick enough to not drip but slick enough for the razor to glide. A Proraso shaving brush with quality soap like Taylor of Old Bond Street creates an excellent foundation.
Map Your Grain
Run your hand across your stubble to feel which direction your hair grows. This varies by facial area. Most people have hair growing downward on cheeks and in multiple directions on the neck.
The Shaving Passes
Unlike cartridge razors that cut in one swipe, safety razors use multiple passes for a close shave:
First Pass: With The Grain (WTG)
Shave in the direction your hair grows. This removes the bulk of the beard with minimal irritation. Re-lather after this pass.
Second Pass: Across The Grain (XTG)
Shave perpendicular to your hair growth. This gets you closer without the irritation of going directly against the grain. Re-lather again.
Third Pass: Against The Grain (ATG)
Optional and for experienced shavers. Shave opposite to hair growth for baby-smooth results. Skip this if your skin is sensitive.
The Critical Angle
Hold the razor at approximately 30 degrees to your skin. Too steep and you'll scrape; too shallow and you won't cut. Start with the handle perpendicular to your face, then lower it until the blade makes contact. Let the weight of the razor do the work—apply zero pressure.
Pro Tip: Short Strokes
Use short strokes of 1-2 inches, rinsing the blade frequently. Long strokes cause the razor to skip and increase the risk of nicks. Work in small sections, especially around the jawline and chin.
Essential Equipment Guide
Razor Blades
Blade selection is highly personal—what works for one person may not work for another. This is due to variations in beard coarseness, skin sensitivity, and razor design. Start with a sampler pack to find your ideal blade.
Feather (Japan)
The sharpest blades available. Excellent for coarse beards but unforgiving of poor technique. Best for experienced shavers. See 100-pack on Amazon
Astra Superior Platinum
The reliable workhorse. Sharp enough for a close shave, smooth enough for beginners. Excellent value at pennies per blade. See 100-pack on Amazon
Derby Extra
Mild and forgiving, perfect for beginners and those with sensitive skin. Turkish-made with Swedish steel. See 100-pack on Amazon
Not sure where to start? A blade sampler pack lets you try multiple brands to find your favorite.
Shaving Brush
A brush isn't just traditional—it's functional. Brushes exfoliate dead skin, lift hairs for a closer cut, and create a protective lather layer. Types include:
- Badger Hair: Soft with excellent water retention. Best lather but requires more care. Taylor of Old Bond Street Pure Badger Brush is an excellent choice.
- Boar Bristle: Stiffer with great exfoliation. Breaks in over time to become softer. More affordable. The Proraso Professional Brush is a favorite among Italian barbers.
- Synthetic: Vegan-friendly, dries quickly, requires no break-in. Modern synthetics rival natural hair performance.
Shaving Soap vs. Cream
Both create excellent lather. Soaps last longer and are more economical; creams are easier to lather and often more moisturizing.
Recommended: Taylor of Old Bond Street
Their Jermyn Street Luxury Shaving Soap produces a rich, protective lather and is formulated without allergens—ideal for sensitive skin. The bergamot and lavender scent is a classic.
After-Shave Care
Post-shave care is crucial for healthy skin:
- Cold Water Rinse: Closes pores and soothes skin
- Alum Block: Natural antiseptic that tightens skin and stops minor bleeding. An alum block also acts as a shave quality indicator—stinging means you need better technique
- Styptic Pencil: For nicks and cuts, a MĂśHLE styptic pencil stops bleeding instantly
- Aftershave Balm: Moisturizes and soothes without the alcohol burn of traditional splashes
Recommended Products
Our top picks for getting started with traditional wet shaving. These products offer excellent quality and value.
Best Beginner Razor
Merkur 34C Heavy Duty
The gold standard for beginners. Heavy chrome construction, short handle for control, and a forgiving blade gap. Built in Germany to last a lifetime.
See on AmazonBest Value Blades
Astra Platinum 100-Pack
The most popular blade for good reason. Sharp, smooth, and incredibly affordable. At 100 blades for under $10, this pack can last a year or more.
See on AmazonBest Shaving Brush
Proraso Professional Brush
Used by Italian barbers for decades. Natural boar bristles create rich lather and provide excellent exfoliation. Improves with use.
See on AmazonBest Shaving Soap
Taylor of Old Bond Street
Jermyn Street formula with bergamot and lavender. Made without allergens for sensitive skin. A single puck lasts months of daily shaving.
See on AmazonBest Blade Sampler
100-Blade Multi-Brand Pack
Try 10 different blade brands to find your perfect match. Includes Feather, Astra, Personna, Derby, and more. Essential for finding what works for your face.
See on AmazonBest Stand & Bowl Set
ACRIMAX Chrome Stand Set
Deluxe chrome stand with insulated stainless steel bowl. Keeps your razor and brush organized and dry. The bowl keeps lather warm throughout your shave.
See on AmazonMaintenance & Care
Caring for Your Razor
- Rinse thoroughly after each use and dry with a soft cloth
- Disassemble weekly to clean between the head plates
- Store in a dry location—a razor stand keeps it off wet surfaces
- Polish occasionally with a soft cloth to maintain chrome finish
Blade Replacement
Replace blades every 3-7 shaves depending on beard coarseness. Signs of a dull blade include tugging, increased passes needed, and skin irritation. Used blades can be collected in a blade bank (an empty container with a slot) for safe disposal.
Brush Care
- Rinse thoroughly after each use to remove all soap
- Shake out excess water and hang to dry (bristles down)
- Never store a wet brush in an enclosed space
- Deep clean monthly with a brush cleaner or mild shampoo
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Razor Burn
Cause: Too much pressure, wrong angle, or dull blade
Fix: Let the razor's weight do the work. Maintain 30-degree angle. Replace blade if more than 5 shaves old.
Nicks and Cuts
Cause: Moving too fast, inconsistent angle, or improper technique
Fix: Slow down. Use shorter strokes. Keep a styptic pencil handy for accidents.
Ingrown Hairs
Cause: Shaving against the grain too aggressively or multi-blade cartridge razors
Fix: Stick to WTG and XTG passes. Safety razors generally reduce ingrowns compared to cartridges.
Poor Lather
Cause: Not enough water, poor quality soap, or hard water
Fix: Start with a wet brush and add water gradually. Use quality soap like Taylor of Old Bond Street. Consider distilled water if you have hard water.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a safety razor blade last?
Most people get 3-7 shaves per blade, depending on beard coarseness and blade brand. Sharper blades like Feather may dull faster but provide exceptional initial sharpness. Replace when you notice any tugging.
Is safety razor shaving really cheaper?
Absolutely. While the initial investment ($30-60 for a good razor) is higher, blade costs are minimal. A 100-pack of Astra blades costs about $10 and lasts over a year. Compare that to $4+ per cartridge refill.
Will I cut myself more often?
During the learning curve (2-4 weeks), you may experience minor nicks. Once technique is established, most people report fewer cuts than with cartridge razors because you're using proper technique rather than pressing hard.
Can I travel with a safety razor?
The razor itself is TSA-approved in carry-on luggage. Blades must be packed in checked baggage. Many wet shavers keep a separate set of blades at their destination or buy locally.
Do I need a shaving brush?
While not strictly required, a brush dramatically improves the shave. It lifts hairs, exfoliates skin, and creates superior lather. Most traditional wet shavers consider it essential.